Sweet Memories Brought by the Kitamaebune 〜 The Story in Every Yokan at Gokatteya Honpo, Esashi
Esashi, once known for the saying “Even Edo can’t match Esashi in May,” is a port town rich with history and sea breeze. Nestled quietly in this town is Gokatteya Honpo, a traditional wagashi (Japanese sweets) maker that has stood the test of time since its founding in 1870.
Their yokan—a traditional sweet bean jelly—carries with it the memory of Kitamaebune (merchant ships of the Edo era), and the quiet conviction of artisans who choose to let their work speak for itself.
A Commitment to Beans Passed Down from the Edo Era
The roots of Gokatteya trace back to the Edo period, when the Nanbu clan came to Esashi to harvest cypress trees. In the Gokatte district, they found success in cultivating beans. Using those beans, Gokatteya’s ancestors began making sweets—marking the first steps in the shop’s long journey.
The ingredients used in those early confections, such as sugar and agar, were transported across the Sea of Japan by the Kitamaebune. That historic connection to trade and craftsmanship remains a core part of Gokatteya’s identity today.
A Name That Carries the Spirit of the Land
The unique name “Gokatteya” originally began as “Gokatteya” (using a different kanji). As the area changed from “Gokatte” to “Gokatte Village,” the shop’s name evolved as well.
The original term “Gokatte” is said to stem from the Ainu word *kokayte*, meaning “a place where waves break and crash.” That meaning still resonates in the shop’s name today, linking it to the very landscape it grew from.
The Philosophy of the Red Kidney Bean: Humble, Yet Essential
One unique trait of Gokatteya’s yokan is its use of *kintoki-mame* (red kidney beans) instead of the more common azuki. These beans do not overpower, but rather bring together and balance the flavors around them.
“They don’t shout for attention, but without them, it wouldn’t come together.” This behind-the-scenes role reflects Gokatteya’s own values: to be present, dependable, and quietly indispensable—just like the beans they cherish.
A Tradition of Steady, Honest Work in the Heart of Esashi
With fewer than 8,000 residents, Esashi is a small town in southern Hokkaido. Yet in this quiet place, Gokatteya Honpo continues its craft with unwavering dedication.
From the Edo period to today, the family-run business—now in its sixth generation—has remained committed to making confections that bring comfort, not flash. Their yokan is a product not just of ingredients, but of history, philosophy, and place.
Even now, as the wind from the sea sweeps through Esashi, the gentle sweetness of *kintoki-mame* simmers in the shop’s kitchen—a quiet gift from the past to the present.
